Huskyjunk.com :: 250 Mag Restoration

Welcome to the Huskyjunk.com Step by Step 250 MAG restoration project.

Step 5

Now that we have the aluminum triple clamp assembly installed, we can put the front end together.

First we will mount the forks, which have been completely rebuilt with many new parts. We are using the twin rib black leg forks from a 1976 GP model. These forks allow the maximum 7" of travel to remain AHRMA legal and also incorporate newer and revalved dampening rods for improved performance. The tubes were then reassembled with new Progressive springs, plastic dampening washers, fork seals, dust covers and filled with a custom blend of fork oil. (7 oz.) Its important to remember that these forks were designed and built before the introduction of the highly refined, lightweight fork oils used in today's modern bike forks. It is therefore necessary to keep the viscosity and weight similar to the originally intended oil. We use a blend of the recommended 30 W non detergent motor oil in combination with modern fork oil as an anti foaming agent. This combination works great and is readily available. Finally, we added a pair of Goki air fork caps. Not to be used a full air forks, but as an adjustable air assist system. With only 2-4 pounds of air in each fork leg, these caps allow the rider to easily dial in the correct amount of compression resistance based on rider weight, ability and or track conditions. When you only have 7 inches of travel to begin with, don't waste 3" on sag.

There are 3 major components involved in making a bike turn.

1. Correct triple clamp offset.
2. proper fork action, not too stiff- not too soft.
3. the right tire pressure.

Get all 3 of these components working together and the bike will go where you point it. Every time!

The new forks are now mounted in the alloy triples with the top of the fork tubes flush with the top of the upper clamp. The forks can be raised or lowered in the triple assembly for added rigidity, depending on which triple assembly you use (alloy with Timken bearings, Profab or stock).

The front wheel was completely rebuilt. We opted for a 74 CR 400 hub rather than the smaller 250 unit for two reasons.

1. Larger hub diameter means more braking surface.
2. New brake shoes for the larger hub are readily available and were installed. Good quality shoes for the smaller 250 hub are very hard to find. The weight difference between the hubs is negligible.

New wheel bearings were installed, hubs painted and then turned on the lathe for accent. New stainless steel spokes were used to lace up the new Excel alloy rims. Michelin S12 tires and tubes round out the wheel work.

While up front, we installed a set of Moose multi wall aluminum fat bars. You can also use Renthal fat bars, they are just a little more $$. High quality Magura dog leg lever assemblies were then added. On to step 6.